Hair Coloring
Here are some tips for all of you who are experimenting with their hair color. Expect for more advices very soon.
Highlighting Your Hair
Whether they’re natural sun streaks or painstakingly painted on, highlights can make your hair look youthful, vibrant, and, well, just plain better.
“No little girl’s hair is all one tone, but as we get older the hair becomes more monochromatic,” says Beth Minardi, a celebrity hair colorist and co-owner and color director of Minardi Salon in New York City. “Highlighting makes the hair look younger, fuller, and can also accent a haircut.” No wonder so many of us succumb to the siren call of the colorist’s chair every couple of months for the process.
While highlights by design don’t always look natural, Minardi says that what looks modern now are highlights that are soft, subtle, and with less contrast. “High-contrast highlights are kind of out right now,” she says.
Still, your colorist should give you the kind of highlights you want — and the key to communicating that is to bring in a color photo of the look you covet, Minardi says. (Believe it or not, Minardi has had clients come to her with black-and-white photos ripped from magazines, which do nothing to help her determine the color of highlights they want.) You should also be fluent in your colorist’s language, so to speak: Be familiar with the terms and methods involved, including:
Highlights: Highlights are selected strands of hair that are lighter than the majority of the hair.
Lowlights: Lowlights are selected strands of hair that are painted a shade deeper than the color of the majority of the hair.
One of Minardi’s signature looks is a shade-on-shade color created by using both highlights and lowlights to enhance certain areas of the hair, she says. “This interplay of light and dark results in lots of soft, lovely threads of varying tone moving through the hair and looks really wonderful. It’s the best way to keep hair looking young, interesting, and even better than natural.”
Two common methods for creating both highlights and lowlights are foils and baliage:
- Foils are probably what you picture when you think about getting highlights. Pieces of foil are used as a barrier to separate the strands of hair to be highlighted and to keep the colorist from inadvertently getting the color product on other strands or sections of hair, Minardi explains. “Foils are barriers that give you more control.”
- Baliage is a French word that means “to sweep” and is also frequently referred to as hair painting. The method offers a colorist less control but is generally thought to give a more natural, sun-streaked look, in part because the color doesn’t go all the way to the scalp. Baliage also has a reputation as being a faster technique, but Minardi says that’s not always the case: “When it is done correctly, it takes more time,” she says.
Another hair highlighting method, called chunking, is just what it sounds like: A colorist adds chunks of color to the hair. But given the current move toward natural-looking highlights, Minardi says chunking is now considered passé.
Whatever method your colorist chooses, getting highlights that look natural has less to do with the method used than the skill and manual dexterity of the person doing the coloring, Minardi says. So choose an expert colorist carefully and come prepared. Chances are you’ll walk out of the salon with the beautiful highlights you wanted — and maybe even had as a girl. Who says you can’t bottle youth?
Hair-Color Techniques
If you’re considering coloring your hair, you’ve probably got a specific vision in mind: an allover rich russet color, perhaps, or maybe chunky caramel-colored highlights. Whatever look you desire, your first step should be to work with your colorist to determine the most flattering color for you, as well as which of the many hair-coloring techniques is right for you.
“Hair color is not just a salon service — it’s really an art form,” says Beth Minardi, a celebrity hair colorist and co-owner and color director of Minardi Salon in New York City. “If done correctly, it can really enhance any woman’s appearance.”
We asked Minardi to discuss different hair-coloring techniques and what women who are considering coloring their hair need to know.
Highlights. A highlight is any piece of hair that’s lighter than the base color.
Lowlights. A lowlight is any piece of hair that’s darker than the rest of the hair.
Both highlights and lowlights can be created using different methods. Two popular methods include foils and baliage:
- Foils. Using foil to highlight hair provides a barrier and ensures that no color drips onto the adjacent hair. It’s a method that offers the colorist more control.
- Baliage. Baliage is a French word that means “to sweep” and is also commonly referred to as hair painting. The method offers less control, in Minardi’s opinion. “Some people believe it’s a faster technique, but when it is done correctly, it takes more time,” she says. Baliage has a reputation for creating the most natural-looking highlights.
Regardless of the method used, when hair is colored with both highlights and lowlights, the combination “can create the most beautiful hair color in the world,” Minardi says.
When it comes to allover color, there are several different formulas available:
Semipermanent color. According to Minardi, true semipermanent color doesn’t penetrate the hair very deeply and washes out after about eight to 12 shampoos. If you’re looking for a low-commitment way to lighten your hair, forget about using semipermanent color. This type of formula can’t lighten your hair color; it can only match or darken it.
Demi-permanent color. Demi-permanent color, a mixture of permanent dye and semipermanent dye, is Minardi’s favorite. Like semipermanent color, it can’t lighten your hair, only match or deepen it, but it penetrates more deeply than semipermanent color and does it “in a sheer, translucent way,” Minardi says.
Permanent color. Permanent dye can do it all — lighten, match, or darken hair color, and it can cover grays 100 percent. Like your natural hair color, permanent dye penetrates the hair in the same region where natural hair color occurs, the cortex. “So when you correctly choose a permanent dye, you actually get the most natural look,” Minardi says. The downside is that because permanent dye contains ammonia or an ammonia substitute, it can be drying to hair, so it has to be used carefully.
Which one is right for you? For Minardi, determining the right hair-coloring technique for a client comes down to lifestyle, personality, and level of commitment. “I want to know about her and her lifestyle,” she says of a prospective hair-coloring client. “What’s her idea of commitment? Some women want to come in twice a year; others don’t mind coming in every three weeks. I look at what will make this woman look her best based upon what she’s willing to do and can afford to do.”
Armed with these expert tips from Minardi about different hair-coloring techniques, you can work with your own colorist to determine the method that’s best for you.
A Hair Color Pro’s Expert Advice
What’s the biggest misconception women have about hair color?
There are a few misconceptions women have about hair color, one being that they can’t color their own hair at home. Coloring at home is possible for any woman; just follow the instructions in the box! Another misconception is that color from a box will create a flat, shoe-polish look and doesn’t provide the multidimensional color we all want. Hair color products like Nice ’n Easy Color Blend Foam have technology that ensures hair color with depth, dimension, and shine.
How should a client prepare for her color appointment?
Prior to her hair appointment, she should have an idea of the look she’s going for. It always helps to bring a picture that inspires her desired look, so that the client and colorist can work together to find the perfect shade. I also recommend that women not wash their hair the day of their appointment so the scalp has some of its natural oils protecting it.
Where should you start to find a color?
When looking at hair color options, keep in mind that ash blondes are cooler or beige. Anyone with paler skin and lighter eyes will look great in cool or ash blonde. Golden blondes have warmer tones such as honey (a darker blonde) or butter (a paler blonde). Golden blonde can give your skin a warmer hue if you feel pale. Golden blonde is also very complementary to brown eyes.
If you go darker, it’s always best to choose a shade slightly lighter than your desired color. Sometimes dark and black hair can be shocking next to our skin, and you can always apply the next darker shade.
Are there any general guidelines you have for selecting a flattering shade?
Rule number one is to stay within two shades of your current hair color for best results. Also take your skin tone and eye color into consideration when selecting your hair color shade.
Do you have any pet peeves when it comes to color requests?
One of my pet peeves is when I explain to a client why a particular color will not work for her or her hair texture and she still insists on doing it. Other than that, if a client takes care of her hair and does not change color so frequently that it can compromise its condition, then I’m pretty open to the color she wants to achieve.
What is the best thing you can do to preserve your color?
Definitely use a shampoo and conditioner specially formulated for color-treated hair, as it will continually nourish and protect your hair. I also advise treating your hair with a weekly deep conditioner and using a heat protection spray when heat styling — all of these products help to further protect and keep hair looking healthy. It also helps to reduce exposure to the sun and chlorinated water, as those elements can take out your color.
Can you name a couple of the celebrity looks you’re especially proud of?
I was especially proud when I colored Jennifer Connelly’s hair to a gorgeous platinum blonde and Anne Hathaway to a beautiful rich, caramel brown.
Color Your Hair at Home — Easily
Hair color at home can be much more economical and convenient than hitting the salon—but there’s also the possibility of some serious disasters. You shouldn’t worry that you’ll turn your gray hairs blue (unless, of course, that’s the look you’re going for). Here’s the scoop on how to get salon-quality color at home.Decide what you want. There’s more than one type of color out there, so you need to figure out what type of coverage you need and how long you want it to last. Glosses give your hair a glossier, healthier sheen and a subtle hint of color that washes out in about a month. Semipermanent hues provide more coverage of grays and a stronger hue, but they won’t give you too strong a shift in color and will eventually wash out of your hair. Permanent color gives you opaque coverage, allowing for bolder shifts in hair shade, and will not wash out — which means you’ll need to keep touching up your roots every month or so to keep your color uniform.
Don’t be too daring. At-home hair color is best for covering grays or subtle shifts in color. If you want to switch from brunette to platinum blonde, you’re better off putting your head in the hands of a pro. “Go only two shades away from your hair color when you’re coloring at home, because it’s safest — and because home hair color isn’t strong enough to go more than two shades anyway,” says Chuck Hezekiah, style coach and licensed cosmetologist. “You’ll end up with orange if you’re dark brown and you put blonde on your hair.”
Choose your hue. Keep your current shade and your coloring in mind when you’re choosing your color. If your skin is warm (which means the veins on the underside of your arm look greenish), stick with warmer shades; if your skin is cool (which means the veins on the underside of your arm look bluish), look for ashier, cooler shades. Look on the box to get an idea of what your color might look like, based on your current shade.
Deep condition your hair before you color. Dry, damaged hair will soak up color unevenly, giving you a less-than-perfect effect. Conditioning will help moisturize the driest hair and ensure the even distribution of your hair color.
Read the directions thoroughly. “The directions are really designed to be the best and smartest way to use the product,” Hezekiah says. “And they’ll offer tips if you have problems.”
Do a test run. Hair dye directions suggest pretesting the color on a small patch of hair before you go for it — and most people skip that step. But that test is a good safeguard, to ensure that the color you’ve chosen works for you and that it won’t irritate your skin.
Get everything ready before you start. Have your watch or a timer so you can keep track of time, a button-down shirt that you can easily slip off after you’re done to hit the showers, dish detergent that you can use to pull color out of your hair if it goes too dark (or to remove any dye you get on your skin), and a pair of rubber gloves. You might also want to invest in a special color brush from a beauty supply store to help you more easily apply the color.
Be sure you’re protected. Spread a nice thick layer of petroleum jelly around the edges of your hairline and on the tops of your ears to keep your skin from getting stained by the dye, and use an old towel to keep any spatter from destroying your clothes.
Work your way to the top. The upper layers of your hair get more damaged than the ones beneath, thanks to the regular styling and exposure to the elements they receive. And that makes the top layer prone to soaking up the color more quickly. So start applying your color on the bottom layers before you hit the top ones.
Ask for a little help. Consider having a coloring party with your best pal — you can apply each other’s color to help make sure you both get a good, even application. And if you find you don’t like the color, don’t be afraid to call the 800 number that’s included in the directions. “There are experts on that line that’ll help you out,” Hezekiah says. “They’ll help you correct a problem the right way.”
Skip the shampoo. After you wash the color out of your hair, don’t shampoo again for at least 24 hours, to give the hair dye time to settle into your tresses.
Use products made for color-treated hair. Shampoos and conditioners that are formulated for color-treated hair will be gentler, to protect your color and make it last longer.
Don’t redye already colored hair. Hezekiah says that the biggest mistake women make is applying color all over their head when they’re doing a touch-up. “That overprocesses the hair, which can burn the cuticle off the hair and make it impossible for the hair to hold color,” he advises. When you’re using the same shade to cover new growth, carefully apply the mixture just to the roots, then wait until a few minutes or even just before you rinse to apply it to the rest of the head, depending on the manufacturer’s instructions. Hezekiah likens it to making muffins: Muffins you haven’t baked yet need to go in the oven for the full amount of time, while muffins you’ve already baked need only a few minutes to get piping hot and ready for serving. Keep that in mind and you’ll have perfect-looking color every time.
10 Tips for At-Home Hair Color
You may think dyeing your hair should be left to the professionals, but at-home hair color isn’t as intimidating as you might think. We asked expert colorists for their best prep and postdye hair care advice and their secrets to applying color evenly and making it last. We’ll walk you through the entire process with these 10 easy tips:
1. Select your shade.
If you’ve decided to use an at-home hair color kit, keep this in mind: “When you’re picking a color, if you’re going lighter, expect the color to be much warmer than what’s on the box,” says Nelson Chan, celebrity colorist. “If you’re going darker, the color is going to show cooler.”
Jet Rhys, owner of Jet Rhys Salons in San Diego, explains, “When using at-home hair color, the pigments are more exaggerated — for example, ash is flat, red is bright, gold is brassy. Your best bet is to pick shades that are neutral or warm. Avoid colors like magenta, cinnamon, sunflower. Instead look for butter rum, brown sugar, spiced topaz. The softer the name, the softer the result.”
Even if you think you’ve found the right shade, test it out before applying to your hair. “The best suggestion is, put it [the dye] on a little section, leave it on, and see if it’s too light, dark, or ashy — we do that at the salon all the time to test the color,” says Chan.
2. Find the right formula.
Now that you’ve found the right color, should you choose a permanent or semipermanent formula? “[It] depends on what you’re looking to do,” says Rita Hazan, celebrity colorist and owner of Rita Hazan Salon in New York City. “To go darker, use a semipermanent; to go lighter, use a permanent.” A semipermanent color will wash out in about 20 shampoos, says Rhys.
3. Deep condition for even color.
Rhys advises using a deep-conditioning treatment two weeks before dyeing your hair, because the strands are porous. “Think of a sponge with the tiny little holes — hair can become porous over time,” she says. Your hair may have been a bit abused from shampooing, heat styling, and daily wear. A mask will fill these little porous holes so that your color will be even, Rhys says.
4. Apply dye to dirty hair.
In order for your hair to take color properly, don’t shampoo for one or two days before you dye, advises Chan. “Your hair cannot be too dirty or too clean,” he says. Plus, explains Michael Boychuck, of Color A Michael Boychuck Salon at Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas, “the natural oils protect your scalp from irritation, which can be caused by the ammonia in many dyes.
5. Avoid a messy situation.
“On your skin, use Vaseline or lotion to protect you from the color,” says Hazan. Apply a thin layer around your hairline and your ears.
Rhys also has strategies for staying mess free while you dye. “I suggest taking garbage bag liners and taping them to the wall behind you and to lay on your countertop,” she says. “Don’t apply color with a shirt on; just drape an old towel around you so you can just jump in the shower.
6. Paint (don’t squeeze) on color.
Rhys shares her step-by-step tips for applying color evenly. She says you should start by dividing your hair into four even quadrants, parting from forehead to nape and from ear to ear, “like a plus sign on your head.” Visit a beauty supply store and grab a color application brush. This allows you to apply the dye closer to the root, and the mixture will go on more evenly.
Work through the hair sections and save the hairline for the last 10 minutes. “This hair is baby fine and has the tendency to grab too dark as well as stain,” she explains. Her trick? Use a mascara wand or baby toothbrush to apply the dye around your hairline. Gently sweep the color around your hairline in an upward motion for the last 10 minutes using the mascara wand or baby brush.
7. Keep your rinse cool.
When you’re rinsing the color out, use cool water, Rhys says. The hair cuticle is lifted and the large color molecules can escape easily if the water is too warm. A cooler temperature will help seal the cuticle and prevent fading.
8. Start color-protecting in the shower.
To ensure your dye job stays vibrant for the longest amount of time possible, start by caring for your hair right after you’ve rinsed out the color. “Once the water runs clear, wash gently with a shampoo designated for color treated hair to remove any excess color from hair and scalp,” says Rhys. “Condition with the deep conditioner that is included with your box color, and leave in for five to 10 minutes to really help seal in color.”
9. Try this touch-up trick.
Boychuck offers this suggestion if you’ve got a lot of gray around the hairline that you want to touch up: Mix a capful of the hair color you’re using with a capful of peroxide. Use a cotton swab to apply this around your hairline. “It makes color last two to three weeks longer,” he says.
10. Make your shade last.
Leave-in conditioners can perform double duty, protecting your hair’s new color as well as protecting your strands from heat and styling damage, Boychuck says. If you’re going out in the sun, he advises wearing a hat or finding a hairspray with UV protection. Hazan suggests getting a trim. “If your ends are healthy, your hair looks shinier,” she says.